
                                  JAKE'S CHAIR

                                    Forward
                             <<view deck1.bmp>>
         Jake's Chair was started in my home shop in 1987 in response
         to a need for some chairs on our deck.  At first, my wife and
         I looked at the commercially available Adirondack chairs and
         were disappointed.  While most appeared to be sturdy, we felt
         that they were too narrow and had arms that were too short or
         narrow for holding a beverage and to assist in leaving the
         chair.  Most were designed with straight lines and were
         generally uncomfortable.  I'm a good sized man and appreciate
         a chair that is both sturdy and comfortable.  Overall, we
         felt that the commercially available Adirondack chairs were
         designed for convenience of construction, rather than for
         comfort.

         As we would try the commercial chairs, I would make comments
         to my wife about the missing or uncomfortable features, and
         would compare them unfavorably to the chairs we both
         remembered from our childhood on Jake's front porch.  She
         finally told me, "Let's stop looking at chairs and you go
         home and build the perfect chair. . . like Jake had on his
         front porch."  I took that as a challenge and a week later,
         we had guests over to try the first scrap wood prototype of
         Jake's Chair.

         The guests were honest in their comments, and a number of
         small revisions were made.  In addition, I refined many
         construction problems so that the fifth and (almost) final
         version of Jake's Chair was not only simpler to build than
         most of the commercial Adirondack chairs, it was far
         sturdier and more comfortable.

         I have a wonderful wife who has never objected to the
         common sense purchase of tools for my shop.  As a result, I
         have a reasonably complete wood working shop with planer,
         jointer, radial arm saw, band saw, table saw, table router
         and shaper.  Since I intended for Jake's Chair to be built by
         anyone, the sixth and final revision of the plans was based
         on constructing it with just the basic hand tools.  I felt
         that if I could build Jake's Chair using a drill, hand
         router, circular saw and saber saw, that most weekend
         carpenters could do the same.  More extensive tools in your
         shop only will make it easier and faster.

         I also was quite firm in my decision to work strictly with
         lumber measuring between 3/4" and 1" thick.  Jake's Chair is
         not compromised at all by the use of the thinner material,
         yet the weight and looks are much better than commercial
         chairs that require thicker parts.

         In preparing the plans for JAKE'S CHAIR, I included the
         drawings and material for the footstool.  The footstool and
         JAKE'S CHAIR are a perfect match, and you would really be
         cheating yourself by not building the footstool at the same
         time you build JAKE'S CHAIR.

         I will also try to give definitions or explanations to the
         terms I use.  For example, when I describe the material, I
         may refer to it as a 1" X 12" board.  However, I may also
         note that the board will measure 3/4" by 11 1/2" when
         measured.

         I would like to hear from you about your experience building
         JAKE'S CHAIR and any suggestions or comments you might have.
         I lost my hearing many years ago, so your comments to me
         should be either by e-mail, letter, or by FAX.  By the way,
         NONE of this material is protected by copyright.  I honestly
         hope that you GIVE these plans or patterns to your children
         or relatives when you are finished with them.  I do ask that
         these plans not be reproduced for resale.  You are free to
         sell the finished chair, however.  If you sell the chair or
         give it away, please let the new owner know that its called a
         "Jake's Chair" in honor of Judge Josiah Marion (Jake)
         Robertson, of Marshall MO who first designed it for his front
         porch.

                               Thomas A. Gauldin
                              12333 Wingspread Way
                               Raleigh, NC 27614
                               FAX (919) 676-1404
                scoundrl@vnet.net  or BSRB45A on Prodigy
         -------------------------------------------------------------

         Assuming no knots and 14' or longer lengths, I have found the
         following amounts of wood adequate to build one Jake's Chair-

         Lumber list- see discussion below
          Jake's Chair only
          (32) linear feet of 12" wood, OR
          (40) linear feet of 10" wood, OR
          (36) linear feet of  8" wood + (6) linear feet of 10" wood

          A 27" wide footstool requires the following:
          (10) linear feet of 10" wood, OR
          (12) linear feet of 8" wood

         On a general note, the wider wood gives you more flexibility
         in layout, hence more efficient use of the lumber.
         Therefore, less material is required to form the individual
         pieces.  Should your wood contain large knots or cracks, the
         quantity required for a Jake's Chair or footstool will
         naturally increase.  For less than perfect wood, shorter
         pieces or narrower widths, I recommend increasing the
         quantity by as much as 30%.  You can always find something to
         do with any scraps.

          Hardware list- galvanized deck screws only
         LENGTH       JAKE'S CHAIR    Footstool     Total

         1-1/4"         16              8         =   24
         1-5/8"         68             36         =  108
         2"              8              2         =    6

          Other material
          outdoor carpenters glue- pint (titebond II, Gorilla Glue or
                                         even Liquid Nails for Decks)
          4 sheets 80 grit sandpaper
          1/2 sheet 1/4" luan plywood or hardboard for pattern

         Tools
         electric drill/screwdriver
          1/8" bit
          #6 countersink
          Phillips or square screwdriver bit (to match screws)
         circular saw
         saber saw
         sander

                                    Material
         JAKE'S CHAIR can be built out of virtually any wood.  If your
         plans include painting JAKE'S CHAIR, pine (SPF) lumber can be
         used.  For a natural look outdoors, there are several woods
         that work well.  I have used Cypress for the chairs on my own
         deck, but have seen rough sawn Western Red Cedar used as
         well.  Hardwoods, such as Oak or Pau Lope are also good
         choices, but difficult to always locate in adequate widths.
         Where available, Redwood would also work well.

         When purchasing the wood, you will find the patterns are
         easier and more efficient to lay out on the wider pieces.
         This is particularly true when there are knots.  Buying the
         longest lumber you can easily handle in your shop also gives
         your more flexibility in layout.

         Pine- If the chair is to be painted, the most economical
         choice is #2 SPF (Spruce, Fir, Pine) in 1" X 10" or 1" X 12"
         widths.  The resulting finished lumber will thus measure 3/4"
         X 9-1/2" or 11-1/2".  Lately, there has been a premium on the
         12" width and I advise against wasting the money.  I prefer
         to pick through the lumber at the lumber yard and buy the
         boards in 14' or longer lengths.  Since the lumber is so
         inexpensive, you can afford to "cut around" knots. Be sure
         that the boards aren't very cupped, since it cannot be used
         for the larger pieces.  If some of the SPF is cupped, use it
         for the smaller parts and not the legs, seat frame or arms.

         Redwood- This outdoor wood works well for JAKE'S CHAIR.  The
         redwood is usually available in the preferred wider widths
         and comes S4S (surfaced four sides).  While costing usually
         more per board foot, there is some economy in premium
         Redwood, since there are no knots to "cut around."
         The S4S finish is also quite comfortable against the skin
         when using JAKE'S CHAIR.

         Western Red Cedar- This inexpensive wood is almost always
         sold in its rough sawn form.  That means that you will either
         have to learn to love the feel of the rough wood on your arms
         and back, or will have to sand or plane it smooth.  A friend
         of mine built several JAKE'S CHAIRS from the rough sawn
         material, and while they looked nice, I did not like the
         feel.  In my own shop, I have a planer that will quickly
         smooth the wood.  However, since 1" Western Red Cedar is
         usually sold rough sawn 3/4" thick or even less, the planed
         material is almost too thin to be used in the legs or seat
         frame.  Overall, I discourage its use, unless you can obtain
         it in S4S finish in 4/4 thickness.

         Cypress- This wood is easily obtained along the East Coast,
         but becomes more "exotic" inland.  It is as easy to work with
         as Western Red Cedar, but lasts practically forever outdoors.
         I prefer to purchase it in 4/4 thickness (this is a lumber
         term meaning that is a full 1" thickness and is pronounced
         "four quarter") and plane it slightly to smooth it up.  In
         North Carolina, 4/4 Cypress in random widths costs about $2
         per board foot.  I have purchased it as cheaply as $1.35/bf
         and for as much as $2.35/bf.  (A board foot of lumber is one
         square foot of material 1" thick) You have to hunt for
         Cypress wider than 8", but it is usually available.  I
         usually save the wider material for the arms and seat frame,
         and use the narrower material for the balance of the chair.

         Juniper- This is also available at lumber yards offering
         alternative woods to CCA treated lumber for outdoor use.  It
         is a tiny bit softer than Cypress, but planes up beautifully
         with a more pronounced grain structure.  It is slightly
         redder in its freshly sanded color, but ages like cypress.

         Oak- If you have a planer, rough Oak is a reasonable material
         to use for JAKE'S CHAIR.  However, if you can only locate
         white or red oak in its S4S finished form at a hardware store
         or lumber yard, it's just not worth the price.  Unfinished
         4/4 white oak costs about $2.50 per board foot around here,
         while the S4S material (usually gift wrapped) costs as much
         as four times as much.  Unlike the above woods, the oak
         should be painted or varnished with spar varnish to protect
         it from moisture.

         Pau Lope- I have just learned about this exotic outdoor wood
         and am anxious to try it.  It is almost four times as strong
         as pine, won't burn, has the weathering ability of concrete
         and the look of mahogany.  On the downside, it appears to be
         quite hard and care has to be taken in predrilling every
         hole.  Carbide tools also appear to be required.

         ***Suggestion- Why not go to the lumber yard and get enough
         #2 SPF to build your first JAKE'S CHAIR?  Like so many other
         projects, JAKE'S CHAIR improves the second and subsequent
         times you build it.  If you are like me, you will make silly
         mistakes when you build JAKE'S CHAIR the first time.  The
         plans you have were copied from the sixth generation of
         patterns I used in developing the chair and footstool.  I
         suggest that you build your first JAKE'S CHAIR from
         inexpensive #2 SPF and then disassemble it and use the pieces
         as your reference for the "good wood."

         If you have scrap 3/4" plywood, that will work as well. The
         only drawback is that plywood is very difficult to route
         well.  Since the first JAKE'S CHAIR will be your practice
         piece, and that includes routing the edges, I really suggest
         investing in expensive pine for smoother cuts and realistic
         routing practice.

         Screws- The only other materials required are the three basic
         screw lengths used in JAKE'S CHAIR.  These are #6 or #8
         galvanized deck screws.  The lengths are 1-1/4", 1-5/8" and
         2".  The shortest screws are used to join material side-to-
         side, while the 1-5/8" ones are used to fasten the arms,
         braces, seat slats and back in place. The slightly greater
         length gives increased holding power in the softer woods.
         The longest screws are used to fasten and reinforce the upper
         back support to the Arm Runners.  The finest screws are 
         the galvanized or stainless ones from McFeeley's in Lynchburg, 
         VA.  They come with the preferred square or "Robertson" 
         drive heads.

         On the footstool, the 1-1/4" screws are again used to join
         the ends to the riser, while the 1-5/8" screws join the slats
         to the ends and hold the support in place.  The one exception
         is the 2" screw inserted through the end and riser into the
         upper part of the support, and used in attaching the lower
         back support to the seat frame.

         Remember, if Jake's Chair is to be left outdoors, galvanized
         screws are a necessity- even if you plan to paint the chair
         and footstool.  For those of you who will be drilling
         clearance holes for the shank of the screw and carefully
         countersinking the head, #8 screws are preferable.  For those
         of you who will be relying on the screw drawing its own head
         into the work (self sinking), then the smaller #6 size will
         reduce cracking.

                     GALVANIZED DECK SCREWS- #8 RECOMMENDED
         LENGTH       JAKE'S CHAIR    Footstool     Total
         1-1/4"         16              8            24
         1-5/8"         68             36           108
         2"              8              2             6

         ***Suggestion- the only reason the 1-1/4" screws are
         recommended is because longer screws, countersunk deeply,
         would penetrate through the material.  However, if your wood
         measures thicker than 3/4", you can and should use a longer
         screw for additional strength.
         Stainless steel sheet metal-type flush wood screws are also
         available in similar lengths.  However, where the galvanized
         deck screws cost less than $.03 each, the stainless steel
         screws are about $.15 each.  If you choose brass, which I
         discourage, the cost jumps to about $.25 each. Galvanized
         screws will eventually darken the wood where they contact it,
         while the more expensive stainless steel screws will not.
         You have to decide if the additional cost and time drilling
         countersink holes is worth it.

         When you buy the screws, I suggest that you purchase more
         than required in case you lose some, decide to add more than
         I did, or in the event I miscounted.  While the cost of the
         screws is not much, by purchasing them in bulk, rather than
         packaged at a lumber yard selling deck materials, might save
         some money.

         Remember, that if you are not using WOOD SCREWS, you may be
         using screws that MAY BE threaded clear to the head.  As a
         result, they will not draw the pieces together like a wood
         screw will.  It may be necessary to clamp the pieces tightly
         before inserting the screw, or to drill a larger clearance
         hole in the piece holding the screw head to permit slippage.
         Most galvanized decking screws have the profile and threads
         of drywall screws, but have no threads near the heads.  These
         are the best screws to use, in my opinion.

                                     TOOLS
         Tools-  The basic handtools found in most shops are adequate
         to build JAKE'S CHAIR.  However, four power tools are almost
         essential; these are the saber saw, circular saw,  variable
         speed reversible drill and router.

         The circular saw is very good at ripping the material for the
         straight cuts and the saber saw is perfect for the cuts
         needed on the seat frame, arm and the braces.  If you do not
         use an electric drill for the pilot holes or as a
         screwdriver, your arms will look like Popeye's after a few
         hours of screwing in all the screws.  The router is necessary
         to give the chair a finished look and to eliminate sharp
         edges.

         Let's talk some common sense for a moment.  The chances are
         very good that the first JAKE'S CHAIR you build will not be
         your last.  From my own experience, the chair looks so good
         and is so comfortable that you will want several for your own
         patio or deck.  In addition, you may decide to build a few to
         give to the kids or friends at Christmas.  Once you start
         building JAKE'S CHAIRS, you will be unusual if you don't
         build many more.  There is magic in taking some flat boards
         and turning them into a comfortable chair.

         In addition, it obviously does not take four times as long to
         build four chairs.  Just as in industry, performing each step
         for multiple JAKE'S CHAIRS and footstools reduces the overall
         time spent per chair and thus gives an economy of scale.

         To me, that alone is a good reason to invest in the basic
         woodworking tools like a router, saber saw, variable speed
         drill and circular saw.  All of the tools should last a long
         time, and the accuracy and time savings are well worth the
         initial cost.  If you're a casual weekender, I suggest that
         you consider the Sears saws and routers when they are on
         sale.

         ** Suggestion- If you're like most of us, the problem is that
         your spouse will object loudly to you buying the tools.  The
         solution I recommend for this problem is to first purchase
         the lumber and screws for the chair.  Arrange the lumber on
         saw horses and then ask the spouse to hold the lumber while
         you saw and rip out the pieces with a handsaw.  Explain that
         the help is necessary, since the handsaw requires a helper to
         hold the wood.  When the spouse sees you struggling and
         suffering with the handsaw, explain how a $50 circular saw
         would let you finish in 1/10 the time, not require a helper,
         and give better results.  

         If you follow my advice and build the first JAKE'S CHAIR of
         #2 SPF for the practice, the router will be easy to justify
         to the spouse.  Without routing the edges of the material,
         the edges are sharp and the overall look of JAKE'S CHAIR is
         unrefined.  Rounding the edges in the indicated areas gives
         JAKE'S CHAIR a totally different look that I consider
         essential.  Showing your spouse the assembled pattern chair
         without the routing will almost always result in your being
         permitted to buy a router. I suggest a carbide combination blade 
         for the circular saw, a  14 tpi (tooth per inch) blade for 
         the jig saw and a 3/8" radius, ball bearing piloted, rounding 
         over router bit.

                       Tool list- in order of importance

         3/8" variable speed reversible drill
          #2 Phillips screwdriver bit for drill
          1/8" bit for pilot holes for deck screws
         #6 combination countersink and pilot for wood screws- not
         recommended

         7-1/4" circular saw
          combination blade- carbide preferred
          rip fence for saw

         Jig saw
          appx. 14 TPI blade

         Router- 1hp or more recommended with 1/4" collet
          3/8" carbide bearing piloted rounding over bit with 1/4"
          shaft

         Router pad- carpet padding will do

         Belt sander- 3" by 21" belt sander is very handy to smooth
          edges and surfaces before assembly.  However, a sanding
          block will work also.

         Palm finishing sander- very useful to finish sand the
          surfaces

         Step ONE               Plan  Layout
         The method I prefer is to first enlarge the drawings and glue
         the full-sized plan to a piece of thin material.  The easiest
         practical way is to call the .bmp file up with Graphics
         Workshop for Windows and enlarge the plans until the scale
         shown on the plans is accurate when measured with a ruler.
         The files can also be viewed in Paint for Windows.  The plans
         than can be printed out life-size on available paper and taped
         together for transfer to hardboard templates.  An alternative
         is to sketch the straight lines on paper and then trace the
         curves life-size from your screen.

         I prefer either 3/16" tempered hardboard or 1/4" luan
         plywood.  Most lumber yards have the thinner materials
         available in 4' by 4' sheets as well as the larger 4' by 8'
         sizes.  I use contact cement and apply it to both the back of
         the plans and to the material with a disposable brush.  Once
         the cement is dry to the touch, carefully position the plans
         over the material and start applying pressure to the center
         of the plans and work outward to eliminate bubbles.  The
         shapes are then cut out with the jigsaw and the edges sanded
         smooth.

         If you're typical, you'll be building many Jake's Chairs, so
         take your time and be careful in scaling the plans up and
         cutting the templates out of hardboard or plywood.  It is
         practically guaranteed that neighbors and friends will love
         the chair and want you to make others for them, so hang onto
         your templates.  Jake's Chair and footstool are very
         "forgiving" of inaccuracies and mistakes.  If you make a
         small mistake in scaling the plans up, you still will
         probably end up with a great chair.

         Step TWO             Make sanding board
         Even with the 4' by 4' thin pattern material, there will be a
         scrap left.  That scrap is valuable, since most folks do not
         have a long bed planer or table sander.  By gluing four
         sheets of 80 grit sandpaper end to end on the scrap, the
         resulting 8-1/2" by 44" sandpaper covered board is ideal for
         truing edges to eliminate any waves.  Lay the sanding board
         on the workbench or floor and rub the cutoff edge of the wood
         or pattern back and forth over the sanding board to
         straighten any edges.

         Step THREE           Copying Patterns to Lumber

         Note: be sure to read "Alternate Layout of Back Pieces"
         before copying the pattern for the back to lumber.

         Since the widths of the material can vary, it is impossible
         to provide a layout of the pattern onto lumber.  In addition,
         if knots are encountered, any scheme is thrown off.  However,
         some pieces can be nested to eliminate waste.  The seat
         frames and arms are best cut from 10" material, where they
         can nest well. Likewise, while the back supports can be
         nested on 10" material, placing them individually on narrower
         material with other odd shapes, such as that angle braces on
         the "inside" of the curve works better for me.  Since the
         wider wood is generally more expensive per board foot than
         the narrower cuts, I prefer to buy the minimum amount of 10"
         material, and concentrate on the more available 8" widths for
         the majority of the pieces.

         Assuming no knots and 14' or longer lengths, I have found the
         following amounts of wood adequate to build one Jake's Chair-

          (32) linear feet of 12" wood, OR
          (40) linear feet of 10" wood, OR
          (36) linear feet of  8" wood + (6) linear feet of 10" wood

         A 27" wide footstool requires the following:
         (10) linear feet of 10" wood, OR
         (12) linear feet of 8" wood

         The footstool may also be built less than 27" wide (the width
         of the chair).  I have built them as narrow as 20" with good
         looking results.  Reducing the width of the footstool to 20"
         saves 2' of length for either of the above widths. <<view
         deck1.bmp, which shows both 27" and 20" footstools in
         foreground>>

         I have tried to eliminate the 10" requirement for cutting out
         the seat frames (8" material is 7-1/2" wide), but reducing
         the depth of the seat frame beyond what I show makes them too
         weak.  However, if someone is brave enough to try a hardwood,
         such as Pau Lope or Oak, they might reduce the depth of the
         seat frame by that additional 1/2".  If you simply cannot
         locate any 10" lumber, lay the bottom of the seat frame along
         the edge of the 8" material and reduce the height of the stop
         on the top of the seat frame.  <<view side1.bmp to see the
         stop>>  SOME of the stop is necessary to orient the lower
         back support, but since most of it is not visible from the
         front of Jake's Chair, having it not match the height of the
         lower back support is not too terrible.  Sanding the mismatch
         in height further reduces the problem.

         The only adjustments to the plans that should be made, but
         are not absolutely necessary, depend on the finished
         thickness of the lower back support and arm runners.

         The two "ears, or tips" of the lower back support rest on the
         seat frame against the stops, << view side1.bmp to see ears
         and stops >> and should be the same width as the frame.
         Likewise, the thickness of the arm runners determine the
         overall length of the upper back support. << view back1.bmp
         to see relationship>> As shown on the plans, it is 25-1/2"
         long, since two 3/4" thick runners were assumed for an
         overall 27" width.  If thicker or thinner material is used,
         subtract the width of TWO arm runners from 27" to determine
         the proper length of the upper back support. If you're off by
         a bit, nobody will notice.

         ***WARNING- Remember that the saw blade removes about 1/8" of
         kerf per cut.  As a result, straight pieces that will be
         ripped MUST be separated by 1/8" when laying the pattern out.
         Likewise, the ends of the material will be reduced by the
         same 1/8" kerf, so leave adequate room between the pieces on
         the board.

         After building your first Jake's Chair and footstool, you
         will find that it isn't always necessary to lay out all the
         rectangular pieces, such as seat slats, legs, back etc.
         Instead, an experienced builder will simply set the rip guide
         on his circular saw to the desired width and will rip the
         appropriate length of material.  Once ripped, the material is
         then cut to length.

         Alternate Layout of Back

         The back of Jake's Chair consists of seven boards.  The
         boards are cut square on the bottom, but the tops are cut so
         that when assembled, the boards form a rounded shape.
         While the pattern shows the final rounded shape, it is
         easier, and more accurate, in my opinion, to directly copy
         the curve to the boards.  Here's how:

         Rather than cut the seven back pieces to the length and shape
         shown, the alternate way is to cut seven boards for the back
         to a width of 3-1/4" and a uniform length of 31" long.  This
         is far easier for layout.

         Then, place the boards together, face down,  on a flat
         surface.  The corners of the bottom of the back slats touch.
         The top pieces are flared to a width of 28" across the top
         BEFORE MARKING RADIUS.  Be careful that when the seven slats
         are laid out, that the gap between the tops is uniform and
         that the center of the center slat is 14" from each corner.

         Since the top pieces are flared, and the bottom corners of
         each board touch, the bottom pieces will take on a natural
         "curvature" as well.  This is desirable, and part of the
         overall design of the chair.

         Now, measure down 17-1/4" from the top center of the center
         slat and make a mark on the slat.  The mark should be in the
         CENTER of the board.  Using this point as the center of a
         circle, draw a 17" radius circle across the top of the seven
         slats, using either a beam compass of a pencil tied with
         string.  These seven marks are the top of the slats and will
         take on a uniform curve when installed according to the
         directions that come later in this description.
         << see back1.bmp and front1.bmp for shape of upper and lower
         chair back >>


         Step FOUR              Cutting
         After laying out all of the pieces for both the chair and
         footstool (34 pieces for JAKE'S CHAIR and 21 for the
         footstool) first cut out the irregularly shaped pieces with
         the jig saw.  The remaining straight cuts can then be made
         with the circular saw.  You will soon see that aligning the
         most frequent pieces, such as seat slats and back slats
         permits the longest and easiest rip cuts.  In addition, you
         will soon begin to wish you had a table saw.  Perhaps your
         spouse should be watching. . .

         One other thing I have found beneficial is to butt the bottom
         (not curved) ends of the seat backs together.  This permits a
         straight across cut with the circular saw rather than a more
         "wavy" cut with the saber saw.

         Holding the sanding board with a foot or knee, rub the ripped
         pieces back and forth on the sandpaper (at an angle to the
         grain) until the edges are straight.  Those of you with a long-bed
         jointer will find this operation easier.  Ends should be sanded
         as well, since the router's pilot bearing rests on the smooth
         edge to guide the bit.  Curved edges can be smoothed by a
         sanding block, but some people might prefer to use a drum
         sander in the drill for this.  The sanding drum is
         inexpensive and improves the outcome.  Thin saber saw blades
         often bend sideways with use.  This leaves a cut that slopes.
         Be very certain that the cut edges are square to the face of
         the lumber, and not sloping.  Those of you with a belt sander
         know that the rounded end of the sander will sand out curves
         well.

         Step FIVE           Routing
         Place the routing pad on the workbench and round over the
         edges ONLY IN THE AREAS SHOWN on the plans. NOTE:
         ON THE  PLANS, ROUTED EDGES ARE SHOWN WITH 
         A DOTTED LINE AS OPPOSED TO A SOLID ONE.  Edges 
         that are to be joined with other pieces are left square, 
         for the most bearing surface and to improve looks.  If you
         have a router table, all routing can be done on the table.  
         Always feed the work slowly against the rotation of the 
         router bit.  When working with the softer woods like 
         Cypress and Redwood, remember to go just fast enough 
         to prevent burning.

         Step SIX             Sanding
         Even the best router bit will occasionally leave a rough edge
         to softwoods.  The only solution is to take a sanding block
         with 100 grit paper and start to work.  If you have a belt
         sander, I recommend clamping the sander upside down on your
         workbench to make a miniature table sander.  100 grit belts
         will quickly smooth out the roughest edges and will even give
         a reasonable finish to the flat surfaces.  The round ends of
         most belt sanders fit well into the curved areas.

         ***Suggestion- The easiest time to do your sanding is before
         beginning the assembly of the chair or footstool.  While
         there is the tendency to "see how it's going to look,"  the
         hour or so taken in finish sanding all pieces will result in
         a much more refined and comfortable chair.

         Step Seven         Initial Drilling
         Again, my assembly technique differs slightly from the
         traditional method.  Since Jake's Chair allows freedom of
         thickness in the selected material, the location of screw
         pilot holes will also differ slightly to "hit" the middle of
         the adjoining piece.  The location of the screw holes at the
         end of the lower back support are a good example.  In my own shop,
         I prefer to countersink (for screw heads) once the piece is ready 
         to be installed.  That way, I can consider which side of the wood
         appears to go best on the surfaces.  My advice to new builders 
         is to mark the location of screw holes, but to wait until ready 
         for assembly before drilling or countersinking the holes.

         The four "interior" screw holes in the lower back support,
         all holes in the front legs, arm runner and arms may be
         predrilled from the pattern.  However, the outer screw holes
         on the lower back support and seat slats should be drilled to
         "hit" the middle of the seat frame edge.  I prefer drilling
         only as the pieces are clamped for assembly, except as noted
         below.

         At this stage, drill the holes with an 1/8" bit and be sure
         that scrap lumber is beneath the hole when the drill bit
         exits the piece.  That way, the bit will not splinter the
         wood as it cuts through.

         The 1-1/2" seat slats have one hole at each end to join them
         to the seat frame and the front (2") seat slat has two holes
         at each end for more strength.  Seat slats and the slats in
         the footstool warrant predrilling and countersinking, due to
         the narrow wood's tendency to split.

         Step Eight          Jake's Chair Assembly
         Begin the assembly by placing the seat frames upright,
         parallel and square 27" (outside measurement) from each
         other.  Place the lower back support on the top of the seat
         frame with the "ears" firmly against the stops.  The ends of
         the lower back support should be flush with the sides of the
         seat frames. << side1.bmp and back1.bmp >>

         Using the approximate hole locations from the pattern of the
         lower back support. drill through the lower back support and
         into the seat frame with the 1/8" bit.  Then, remove the
         lower back support and redrill the four holes in it using the
         #6 or #8 countersink and pilot.  DO NOT USE THE PILOT ON THE
         SEAT FRAME HOLES.  The screw heads should be just slightly
         recessed.  Because of the direction the grain runs, do not
         overtighten.

         The reason for redrilling the pilot hole and countersink in
         just the upper piece is that the new pilot hole will be too
         large in diameter to permit the deck screws to firmly grip
         the seat frame.  This is ideal in assembly, since tightening
         the screws will permit thread slippage in the upper piece and
         the smaller 1/8" hole in the lower piece will cause the upper
         to be drawn tightly against the lower piece.

         This technique is used throughout the entire assembly.

         Glue the area of contact with exterior glue and then insert
         the 2" screws in the holes and drive them home.

         Before installing the 2" by 27" front seat slat << front1.bmp
         and side1.bmp>>, place the front edge of the seat frame on
         scraps of 1/4" material to raise it slightly above the
         workbench.  Since the slats all have rounded edges, this will
         permit the rounded portion of the first slat to slightly
         "overlay" the front of the seat frame and to hide its lower
         front corner.

         Position the wide (2" by 27") seat slat against the front of
         the seat frame <<front1.bmp >>.  Like the lower back support,
         it should be flush with the sides of the seat frame with the
         lower edge flat against the workbench, 1/4" lower than the
         seat frame.  << side1.bmp >> Again, drill two 1/8" pilot
         holes in each end and into the seat frame.  Remove the front
         seat slat and redrill it with the countersink pilot bit.
         Finally, attach it to the seat frame firmly with glue and
         four 1-5/8" screws and then retighten the four 2" screws in
         the lower back support.

         The next step is to turn the complete seat over and install
         the two "L"-shaped corner brackets under the lower back
         support to hold it firmly at right angles to the seat frames.
         << bottom1.bmp and back1.bmp >> The screws run from the 
         lower back support down into the corner brackets and from the
         seat frame into the corner brackets.  While it would be possible to
         hide the screws more effectively by installing them from the 
         underside, the counterbore and countersink would reduce the
         strength of these small pieces too much. Be  careful to drill 
         clearance  holes and countersink into the corner bracket, 
         or splitting will occur.

         The corner braces should be adequate to force the two seat frames          
         into square, but be careful that the seat frames also remain 
         parallel with each other.
         
         Now, using two small scraps of 1/4" material as spacers
         between each seat slat, begin at the front slat and
         glue/screw each seat slat to the seat frame. The only wide 
         seat slat is the one used as the starter at the front.  
         All others are the narrow ones.  As you approach the back 
         support in the rear, adjust your spacing to give  an even 
         spacing between the final 2-3 slats, with any over/under
         remaining on the seat frame being hidden under the lower 
         back support. This area is hidden from view in the finished chair.

         Cut two scraps of wood 10-1/2" long and use them to support
         the front of the seat 10-1/2" above the workbench.  This is
         the height of the front slat above the workbench.  Using 4
         screws and glue, clamp and then fasten the front legs to the
         seat frame 3" back from the front tip, being sure that the 
         legs are plumb <<side1.bmp>>. The screws run from the seat 
         frame out into the front legs.

         Note:  It should be emphasized that the front edge of the
         front leg should intersect the bottom of the seat frame     
         assembly at a point 3" rearward of the front seat frame end.

         Install the arm braces to the outside middle of the front
         legs, being sure that they are flush with the top to support
         the arms and arm runners, which are installed on the INSIDE
         of the front legs. << side1.bmp, back1.bmp and front1.bmp
         >>The screws run from inside the front legs into the arm
         braces.

         Now, glue, clamp and screw the arm runners to the INSIDE of
         the front legs, << side1.bmp back1.bmp and front1.bmp>>
         making sure that they are flush at the top and front of the
         front legs and are perfectly level with the workbench.  The
         screws pass again from inside the arm runners into the front
         legs.

         An alternate assembly technique (rather than building in
         place) is to assemble the front legs, arm runners and arm
         braces before attaching them to the seat frame.  I have done
         it both ways and there are advantages to both techniques.  As your
         experience in building Jake's chair increases, you will probably
         find it preferable to build the arm/leg assembly separately.

         The next step is to glue and screw the UPPER back between the
         arm runners << back1.bmp >>in the position shown on the
         plans.  However, only ONE screw per side is installed and no
         glue is used.  This permits it to swivel a bit to meet the
         seat back at a right angle when it is installed.

         The center seat back slat is now installed, being sure that
         the bottom of the slat is FLUSH with the bottom of the lower
         back support, that it is in the center of the two back
         braces, and that it is plumb.  Two screws attach it at both
         the upper and lower back braces.

         Now, install the second screw (2" screws are used) through
         the arm runners into the upper back support to complete its
         installation.  Removing the first screw and squeezing a
         little glue into the joint first is recommended, but not
         mandatory.

         At this point, the arms are fastened to the arm runners.
         << front1.bmp and side1.bmp >> Pilot holes are predrilled as
         shown on the plans for alignment with the arm runners and arm
         braces.  Be careful to keep the holes above the middle of the
         boards and use glue as well.

         The rest of the seat back slats are now installed
         <<back1.bmp>>.  Work from the middle slat outward, keeping
         the BOTTOM CORNER OF THE NEW SLAT touching the corner of the
         existing slat.  There is NO GAP at the bottom and about a
         3/8" gap at the top.  Since the slats fan outward toward the
         top by about 3/8" each, each slat will intersect an inner
         slat corner slightly "lower down" on the lower back support
         in an arc.  This is why the holes are not predrilled, since
         there are too many variables in where the holes would be.
         Use two screws at both the upper and lower back support
         contact points.

         The outermost seat back slats are intended to clear the
         inside of the arms by about 1/4".  << front1.bmp >>  I
         recommend spacing the slats all at once and adjusting them
         for a uniform gap at the top.  The final top of the chair
         back should measure about 25" at its widest point.

         STEP NINE              Footstool Assembly

         To assemble the footstool, the first step is to install the 
         corner braces to the center of one end of each riser.  Be 
         sure that the edge of the corner brace is flush with the end  
         of the riser.  Screw through the riser into the brace. Then, 
         glue, clamp  and screw the upper and lower footstool ends to the
         12-1/2" tall risers, screwing from inside out. << side1.bmp >>  
         The frames are installed on the "outside" of the risers.  
         Now, stand the risers up and plumb them with the corner braces 
         to the inside on the top.  Screw one of the narrow slats across 
         the center of the top or the upper frame, covering up the corner 
         braces with the slat.   Once screwed to the frames, using 
         one screw on each end, screw to additional screws up from  the 
         corner brace into the bottom of the center slat. << front 1.bmp >>

.        Now, screw each of the two wide slats to the lower frame on either 
         side of the riser. This will help to keep the two risers parallel 
         and plumb for the remainder of the assembly.  << bottom1.bmp >> 
         Finally, install the remaining slats to the upper frame and lower 
          frame, spacing them equally. Remember to equalize the distance
          between the risers and the  angled corner of the lower frame.  
          This is done by eye. << side1.bmp >>
         
         I have found equalizing the appearance of the slats to be easier 
         by doing the following:  First set the slats on the ends of
         the upper fame, then the slats on the angles and finally
         "average" the slats between the angled slat and the one
         previously installed in the middle.  If the plans were
         adhered to carefully, the spacing should work out to the 1/4"
         recommended. <<side1.bmp>>

         Many folks will want to stain Jake's Chair or paint it.
         While I originally elected to let my cypress versions weather
         naturally, the original Jake's Chairs on Jake's front porch
         were painted with white enamel.  After several years of
         my own chairs natural weathering, I tired of the dark silver 
         patina.  The  chairs were pressure washed and stained with 
         Cabot's cedar colored deck stain. <<deck1.bmp>> The choice 
         is highly personal and about any solution is acceptable.

         If you elect to paint Jake's Chair and footstool, first prime
         the wood with an oil based wood primer, such as Rustoleum for
         Wood.  Finish with an enamel of the desired color.  Should a
         color other than pure white be used, clearcoating the chair
         with a spar polyurethane can be done for added weather
         resistance.  However, the spar polyurethane has a dark yellow
         cast and will change the color of the chair appreciably.

         Staining is best done with an oil based wiping stain or wood
         dye.  After applying the stain to a small area with a sponge
         brush and allowing it to soak in, wipe the area with a dry
         rag to remove any excess. Follow up with two coats of clear
         polyurethane for indoor use or the darker spar polyurethane
         for outdoor use.  Finally, sand the cured finish (about 7
         days) with 220 grit paper to remove any raised grain and then
         apply one more coat.

         Another process would be to use an outdoor penetrating deck
         stain (actually a linseed oil and dye combination) that
         contains a UV blocker.

         SUMMARY

         Since Jake's Chair plans are made available by FTP or E-Mail
         over the Internet as an experiment in free dissemination of
         plans electronically, we'd sure appreciate any comments or
         refinements in what we've done. Feedback would benefit future
         builders of this fine chair and footstool. Please feel free
         to E-Mail your comments or pictures of your finished Jake's
         Chair to me at:

         scoundrl@vnet.net
         or at BSRB45A on Prodigy

         My home address is
         Tom Gauldin
         12333 Wingspread Way
         Raleigh NC 27614-9245

         I have a fax at (919) 676-1404.

         A very special thanks goes out to Don Peterson
         (donp@donp.boi.hp.com) for the tremendous work he did in
         bringing Jake's Chair to life with his CAD program and for
         all the time he spent measuring and debugging the patterns.
         
I want to also thank John O'Brien for his feedback on the construction 
of an actual chair from the original plans Don and I prepared. As the 
"beta" tester,  his frustrations and observations helped me to refine 
the text of this project.  Thanks, fellows!
TAG

Thomas A. Gauldin       Here's to the land of the longleaf pine,
Raleigh, NC             The summerland where the sun doth shine,
BSRB45A on Prodigy      Where the weak grow strong and the strong grow great,
FAX (919) 676-1404      Here's to Downhome, the Old North State.


 
